Dave Lorch has been CV Travel‘s Italy Product Head for the last few years. He first visited Italy as a teenager and was instantly intoxicated by its rural beauty, together with the artistic and cultural treasures to be found in so many towns and cities.
The colourful cusp between autumn and winter is a beautiful time to visit Tuscany; the huge crowds have disappeared, the landscape is flourishing, the olives are in season, the fields return to green and the woods turn yellow, brown and dark green. Here are Dave’s top recommendations.
Take part in the olive harvest
November is traditionally the month of the olive harvest and the best time to taste fresh olive oil. The vast majority of olives are still picked by hand in Tuscany - nets are placed beneath the trees and the olives are knocked down by hitting the branches. Some traditionalists still insist that all olives are pulled from the tree by hand – literally ‘stroking’ the twigs to pull off the olives. Visiting the olive presses during this time is an unforgettable experience and a great way to discover an important side of the local culture and tradition (don’t forget to pack any purchases in your hold baggage on the way home).
Renato, the owner of Borgo San Biagio, is happy for guests to help out with the olive harvesting on the estate.
Go mushroom and truffle hunting
The ground is still warm from the long Italian summer but also damp – the optimal time for fungi and tartufi in Tuscany and Umbria. To go mushroom hunting, we recommend you join an organised group with an experienced guide who knows mushrooms well – you need special permits and some wild mushrooms are extremely poisonous. The rarer truffles are harder and even more rewarding to find, with the help of a trained dog. A morning’s truffle hunt in the wooded countryside might just be rewarded with a truffle tasting lunch with local wines.
Truffle hunting and tasting with local wines can be organised via Renato at Borgo San Biagio.
Taste some chestnuts
Vast areas of Tuscany, particularly in the north, are covered in Castagna – chestnut forests. From October through November, you will see the locals out in the woods collecting them. A chestnut-themed daytrip to Monte Amiata is the perfect way to discover this beautiful part of Tuscany. Even if you don’t venture into the woods, you’ll find hot-chestnut sellers in most towns leading up to Christmas.
Indulge in some wine tasting
The perfect accompaniment to Tuscany’s tasty treats is a bottle of regional wine. Many of the local vineyards offer wine tasting – contact them directly for further information. I recommend Montevibiano, Gritti and Lungarotti (which also has a wine museum).
Tuscan festivals
The autumn season is packed with festivities. In November, many are dedicated to the foods of the region, including two which celebrate the truffle. The town of San Giovanni d’Asso near Siena has truffle tastings, truffle-hound contests, music and exhibitions. The White Truffle Festival in San Miniato takes over Piazza del Popolo with delicious cut-price tartufi.
CV Travel recommends
Borgo San Biagio, a romantic and lovingly renovated hamlet 55km from Perugia, is the perfect base. Make the most of Tuscany’s wintery wonders by staying in a private house; eat out at local restaurants or stock up with local fresh ingredients to prepare your own Tuscan feast back at base.
Alongside the authentic historical features, Borgo San Biagio has a large heated pool and some houses have a roaring fire. As well as foodies, it’s an ideal base for walkers and nature lovers – explore the surrounding countryside and woodland on foot, bicycle or horseback.
Each private house sleeps from 2 to 4 guests, including the four-storey medieval Renato’s Tower for 2 (£1,000 for 7 nights for 2). A November week’s rental of the entire hamlet costs £2,530 for 10 guests, £3,600 for 16 guests and £4,340 for 20 guests.
Contact CV Travel for expert advice and a wide choice luxury villas in Tuscany.
